Edit Your Life, Part 2: Your Rooms

 One of the things I have learned is to edit brutally (no sarcastic comments about why I don’t do that with my blog posts). Cut out everything that’s not necessary, and you’ve got a more meaningful story.

I highly recommend editing your life.

Today’s edit: The rooms in your house, one at a time.

Are you surrounded by clutter in every room in your home? Clutter is visually distracting and stressful — every item that you see demands your mind’s attention, and no matter how short that attention is, and despite that it is subconscious, these little distractions add up. It’s difficult to have peace and to focus amid this clutter. Add to this the wasted time and energy needed to look for things, to maintain things, and to clean things, and the more clutter you have, the more energy it will take to have it.

So, I recommend that you edit each of the rooms in your house, one per week, until you have de-cluttered your home and made it a peaceful and calming place to be.

Here’s how:

• First, choose a room to do this week. Don’t try to do your whole house at once, as this can be very time consuming (unless you just have a lot of time on your hands — in which case, go for it!). Focus on one room, and try to do 15 minutes a day (unless you get carried away and feel like doing more). Work on one room each week.


• In the beginning, skip the closets and drawers that are out of sight for now. We’ll tackle those in next week’s Edit Your Life. Focus for now on the things you can see.


• Start with the big things. Is there too much furniture in the room? If so, edit them. What is necessary, which furniture do you love, which stuff is just too distracting. Also consider removing other big items, like boxes full of stuff.


• Clear all flat surfaces. Desktops, tabletops, countertops, etc. Remove all papers, piles of stuff, little junk, knick-knacks, anything. Put it on the floor. Now get a trash bag and two boxes. Sort through everything in your pile(s), one item at a time. Each item should be either thrown away in the trash bag, put in one box to give away (to friends, family or charity), or in the other box to put in another room in the house. Put back only a couple select items on the flat surfaces, such as a family photo or something that functionally belongs there. But as much as possible, leave the flat surfaces as bare as humanly possible. “Stuff” doesn’t belong here — you need to find a drawer, shelf, or container for whatever stuff you’ve removed. When you’re done sorting through the pile, put the recycle box in the trunk of your car and drop it off the next time you go out to do errands. Throw away the trash bag. Take the other box and put the stuff where it belongs elsewhere in the house (don’t put it on flat surfaces unless absolutely necessary!).


• Repeat this process for any other “stuff” in the room, including stuff on the floor.


• Now go around the room, clockwise, and edit what’s left. This might be stuff on the walls, posted to surfaces like the refrigerator, stuff under tables or desks, etc. Only leave the stuff that’s absolutely necessary. I mostly have blank walls except for a few choice paintings or drawings (by my dad, an artist). All my flat surfaces are bare. It’s nice.


• Be merciless. Edit brutally. The more you can get rid of, the better!

OK, your room should look pretty good now. If so, you should feel pretty great! Sit down, relax, look around, and enjoy the peaceful goodness. Savor your triumph.

Now, this editing process is not a destination, but an ongoing process. It won’t last long if you don’t have a system and develop habits to keep it de-cluttered.

Here’s the system:

• A place for everything, and everything in its place. An oldie, but valuable nonetheless. Are you about to put something down on a flat surface? Stop yourself. Think about where that item belongs. If it doesn’t have a home, find one and stick with it. Always put it in that spot. For example: I have a tray for my keys, wallet, etc., and when I first get in the house, I put these things in this tray. Every time. So I always know where it is. And when I leave, it’s as simple as grabbing my stuff from the tray.


• Have an inbox for your home for ALL incoming papers. And a filing system for documents you need to keep, from bills to important documents to taxes to kids’ report cards. Put all incoming mail, school papers, receipts, etc. into the inbox, and process it once a day (or every other day, but not much longer than that — otherwise you’re just creating a pile). When you process, don’t leave stuff in a pile to be filed later — file it immediately. Trash other stuff. Pay bills immediately or put them in a bills to be paid folder. Don’t leave papers laying around elsewhere.


• Clean up at night and before you leave the house. If you’ve developed good habits, you may not need this, but no one’s perfect, and if you have kids, you’ll definitely need this, because kids certainly are not perfect at this habit. Just take 5-10 minutes to pick up stuff and make sure your flat surfaces are clear.


• Every six months (or a year), de-clutter. Despite your best efforts, new stuff just accumulates. You need to have a regular binging process every now and then.

Zen Mind: How to Declutter

One of the things that gives me most peace is have a clean, simple home. When I wake up in the morning and walk out into a living room that has been decluttered, that has a minimalist look, and there isn’t junk lying around, there is a calm and joy that enters my heart.

When, on the other hand, I walk out into a living room cluttered with toys and books and extra things all over the place, it is chaos and my mind is frenetic.

I’ve been a simplifier and a declutterer for years now (probably 8-9 years) and I’ve gotten pretty good at it, but I’ve found that you have to keep coming back to revisit your clutter every once in awhile.

Here are my top decluttering tips:

• Do it in small chunks. Set aside just 15 minutes to declutter just one shelf, and when that shelf or that 15 minutes is up, celebrate your victory. Then tackle another shelf for 15 minutes the next day. Conquering an entire closet or room can be overwhelming, and you might put it off forever. If that’s the case, just do it in baby steps.


• Set aside a couple hours to do it. This may seem contradictory to the above tip … and it is. It’s simply a different strategy, and I say do whatever works for you. Sometimes, for me, it’s good to set aside part of a morning, or an entire Saturday morning, to declutter a closet or room. I do it all at once, and when I’m done, it feels awesome.


• Take everything out of a shelf or drawer at once. Whichever of the two above strategies you choose, you should focus on one drawer or shelf at a time, and empty it completely. Then clean that shelf or drawer. Then, take the pile and sort it (see next tip), and put back just what you want to keep. Then tackle the next shelf or drawer.


• Sort through your pile, one item at a time, and make quick decisions. Have a trash bag and a give-away box handy. When you pull everything out of a shelf or drawer, sort through the pile one at a time. Pick up an item, and make a decision: trash, give away, or keep. Don’t put it back in the pile. Do this with the entire pile, and soon, you’ll be done. If you keep sorting through the pile, and re-sorting, it’ll take forever. Put back only what you want to keep, and arrange it nicely.


• Be merciless. You may be a pack rat, but the truth is, you won’t ever use most of the junk you’ve accumulated. If you haven’t used it in the last year, get rid of it. It’s as simple as that. If you’ve only used it once or twice in the last year, but know you won’t use it in the next year, get rid of it. Toss it if it’s unsalvageable, and give it away if someone else might be able to use it.


• Papers? Be merciless, unless it’s important. Magazines, catalogues, junk mail, bills more than a year old, notes to yourself, notes from others, old work stuff … toss it! The only exception is with tax-related stuff, which should be kept for seven years, and other important documents like warranties, birth and death and marriage certificates, insurance, wills, and other important documents like that. But you’ll know those when you see ‘em. Otherwise, toss!!!!


• If you are on the fence with a lot of things, create a “maybe” box. If you can’t bear to toss something because you might need it later, put it in the box, then close the box, label it, and put it in storage (garage, attic, closet), out of sight. Most likely, you’ll never open that box again. If that’s the case, pull it out after six months or a year, and toss it or give it away.


• Create a system to stop clutter from accumulating. There’s a reason you have tall stacks of papers all over the place, and big piles of toys and books and clothes. It’s because you don’t have a regular system to keep things in their place, and get rid of stuff you don’t need. This is a topic for another day, but it’s something to think about as you declutter. You’ll never get to perfect, but if you think more intelligently about how your house got cluttered, perhaps you can find ways to stop it from happening again.


• Celebrate when you’re done! This is actually a general rule in life: always celebrate your accomplishments, no matter how small. Even if you just decluttered one drawer, that’s great. Treat yourself to something delicious. Open that drawer (or closet, or whatever), and admire its simplicity. Breathe deeply and know that you have done a good thing. Bask in your peacefulness.

The First Rule of Simplifying: Identify the Essential (or, How to avoid the Void)

 “Our lives are frittered away by detail … simplify, simplify” – Henry David Thoreau

We talk a lot about simplifying your life on Zen Habits, from simplifying your possessions and clutter to simplifying the stuff you need to do. But recently I had a comment from a reader who said that the problem is that he doesn’t know what to do with himself after cutting out television and other time-wasters from his life.

The simple answer: Do what you love.

His comment, while understandable, illustrates a common misunderstanding of simplification, and it’s a good point that I thought is worth discussing. The misunderstanding: that simplifying is basically just cutting stuff out, leaving an emptiness or void. People think that it leaves you with a boring life, and nothing fun. They couldn’t be more wrong.

The real goal of simplifying, and the First Rule, is to first identify what is essential, what you love, what is important to you — and then cut out all the rest that distracts you and keeps you from doing what’s important.

We have so much stuff in our lives, from possessions to things we need to do to information coming in to visual and emotional clutter, that we are overloaded. The result? We end up doing a lot of things that aren’t really important to us, because we have so much other stuff to do that has crept into our lives and that we leave in our lives, unexamined.

Socrates said, “The unexamined life is not worth living.” Well, Socrates must have been an excellent simplifier — as evidenced by the fact that he just wore a robe and sandals. In any case, in order to simplify our lives, we must first examine our lives. What is important, and do all the things in our lives give us value? These are the questions to ask, and if you find the answers, simplifying is extremely easy.

Let’s look at how finding what is essential, what we love, and what is important to us, can help us simplify, and what it leaves in our lives:

1. The first question: What is most important to me? What do I love to do? The answer is different to every person. For me, it’s simple: I love my wife and kids, I love writing, I love reading, and I love helping others. For others, it may be hiking or mountain biking or creating music or anything, really. Answer this question first.


2. The second question: what are the things going on in my life, the things I do every day and every week and month, and how are they related to what is important to me? If you are going out drinking with the guys, and it’s not really important to you, and it’s stopping you from doing what is important, that’s a candidate for simplifying. Examine all your commitments, and ask yourself if they are really important to you, if they give you great value for your time, and if they are related to what is truly important.


3. Possessions: The same questions can be asked of all the stuff you own — do you really love them? Are they truly essential? Another question you can ask, to clarify your thinking: If my house burned down, which few things would I want to replace? Get rid of all the rest. They leave clutter and stress and keep you from enjoying the stuff you really love.


4. Everything else: This same concept can be applied to anything else in your life — your work, the information you read every day, the television programs you watch, the people in your life. Know what’s essential, what you love, what’s important … and get rid of the rest.


5. What you’re left with: If you get rid of the extraneous stuff, the stuff that’s not related to what’s important to you, what do you have left? Just the important stuff. Just the stuff you really love to do. When you get rid of the other stuff, when you cut, let’s say, television and hours of Internet surfing and beer drinking from your life, don’t just cut it out — remember what’s important and what you love to do, and do that instead. For me, that means spending time with my family instead of working, that means writing or reading instead of watching TV, that means helping others instead of going to the mall (something I want to do more of).

Simplifying isn’t meant to leave your life empty — it’s meant to leave space in your life for what you really want to do. Know what those things are before you start simplifying.

Edit Your Life, Part 1: Commitments

One of the things I have learned is to edit brutally (no sarcastic comments about why I don’t do that with my blog posts). Cut out everything that’s not necessary, and you’ve got a more meaningful story.

I highly recommend editing your life.

Today’s edit: All the commitments in your life.

Take an inventory of the commitments in your life. Here are some common ones:

• Work - we have multiple commitments at our jobs. List them all.


• Side work – some of us free-lance, or do odd jobs to take in money. More commitments.


• Family - we may play a role as husband, wife, father, mother, son, daughter. These roles come with many commitments.


• Kids - my kids have soccer, choir, Academic Challenge Bowl, National Junior Honor Society, basketball, spelling bee, and more. Each of their commitments is mine too.


• Civic - we may volunteer for different organizations, or be a board member or officer on a non-profit organization.


• Religious - many of us are very involved with our churches, or are part of a church organization. Or perhaps we are committed to going to service once a week.


• Hobbies - perhaps you are a runner or a cyclist, or you build models, or are part of a secret underground comic book organization. These come with – surprise! – commitments.


• Home - aside from regular family stuff, there’s the stuff you have to do at home.


• Online - we may be a regular on a forum or mailing list or Google group. These are online communities that come with commitments too.

You might have other categories. List everything.

Now take a close look at each thing on the list, and consider: How does this give my life value? How important is it to me? Is it in line with my life priorities and values? How would it affect my life if I dropped out? Does this further my life goals?

These are tough questions, but I suggest seeing if you can eliminate just one thing — the thing that gives you the least return for your invested time and effort. The thing that’s least in line with your life values and priorities and goals. Cut it out, at least for a couple weeks, and see if you can get along without it. Revisit this list at that time and see if you can cut something else out. Edit mercilessly, keeping only those that really mean something to you.

Each time you cut a commitment, it may give you a feeling of guilt, because others want you to keep that commitment. But it’s also a huge relief, not having to do that commitment each day or week or month. It frees up a lot of your time, and while others may be disappointed, you have to keep what’s important to you in mind, not everyone else. If we committed to what everyone else wanted all the time, we would never have any time left for ourselves.

Take the time to edit your commitments, and your life will be greatly simplified. You will thank yourself for it.

Monk Mind: How to Increase Your Focus

 I confess to being as prone to the distractions of the Internet as anyone else: I will start reading about something that interests me and disappear down the rabbit hole for hours (even days) at a time.

But my ability to focus on a single task has dramatically improved, and that one habit has changed my life.

While a few years ago I couldn’t sit down to work on something without quickly switching to email or one of my favorite Internet forums or sites, today I can sit down and write. I can clear away distractions, when I set my mind to it, and do one thing. And that changes everything: you lose yourself in that task, become so immersed that you pour everything you have into the work, and it becomes a meditative, transformative experience. Your happiness increases, stress goes down, and work improves.

I know that lots of people have trouble focusing one one task for very long, and so I thought I’d share a few things that have worked for me.

Focus Best Practices

There is no one way to find focus, but what works for me is to clear everything away and create a little space of tranquil focus. Some tips for doing that:

• Close the browser and your email program. If you need to work in the browser then make sure no tabs or windows are open other than the one you absolutely need.


• Turn off all notifications. Trying to focus while something is notifying you of an incoming email or tweet or Facebook update is impossible.


• Turn off the Internet. Shut off your connection, unplug your router, or best yet, go to a place where the is no Internet (yes, those still exist). This is the absolute best way to find focus.


• Close all programs and windows other than what you need for this one task.


• Have a very important task to do. Not just “check email” but “write chapter in my novel” or “write that kick-ass blog post I’ve been planning” or “write that new Android app”.


• Clear your desk. No need to spend all day on this — shove everything in a drawer or put it in a box to be sorted later. Don’t fiddle with this now. In fact, don’t fiddle with anything — don’t worry about the perfect setup or perfect notebook for writing or the perfect anything.


• Plug in the headphones. If you have people around who might distract you, wearing headphones and playing some good, peaceful music is perfect.


• Use a simple program. For writing, I like plain text editors (TextEdit, TextWrangler) or writing programs that block everything out (OmmWriter, WriteRoom). No distractions.

Once you have this environment (and you shouldn’t spend more than a few minutes setting it up), get going on your task. Do nothing but that one task. Don’t switch to another task. Having trouble doing that? Read on.

How to Increase Your Focus Abilities

If you can’t focus on one task for very long, don’t worry. That’s normal. Our brains have been trained by technology and society to switch tasks often.

One way we’ve been trained is that switching to check email or blog updates or Facebook/Twitter is rewarding — we are rewarded with a little nugget of satisfaction in that someone has sent us a message (social validation!) or we have something new and interesting to read (shiny and bright!). Switching tasks becomes a positive feedback cycle that is hard to beat by single-tasking.

The way to beat that is to set up a positive feedback cycle for focusing. Here’s how:

1. Start small. You only need to focus for one minute at first. Clear everything away, pick your one important task, and just do it for one minute without switching. This is hard to do in the beginning but if you consciously focus on focusing, you can do it. It’s just a minute.


2. Reward yourself. The reward for focusing for one minute can be one minute (or 30 seconds) of checking whatever you want. Email, Facebook, whatever. Or get up and take a one-minute walk. Stretch, drink some water, massage your neck, enjoy your small victory. Empires are created with small victories.


3. Repeat. Keep doing one minute focus, one minute reward (or 1 minute to 30 seconds if you like) for about half an hour (15 of each). You’re done. Repeat that later in the day. Rejoice in how much work you got done! And notice how you’ve set up a positive feedback cycle for focusing.


4. Increase in small steps. Tomorrow, make it two minutes on, one minute off. Repeat that for 30 minutes, do it later in the day too. Feel free to go wild and do three focus sessions in a day if you like, but it’s not necessary.


5. Keep taking baby steps. I think you can see the pattern by now. Make it three minutes on, one minute off on the third day, then 4:1, then 5:1. When you get to 10 minutes, be crazy and take a 2 minute break. When you get to 20 minutes, take a 3 minute break. At 30 minutes of focus, you’ve earned a 5 minute break. And once you’re at 30 minutes, you can stay there. No need to become a monk.

Set up a positive feedback cycle for single-tasking focus and you’ll reverse the years of training your mind has gotten to switch tasks. You’ll get more important work done, and it won’t seem hard. You’ll find that focus becomes a form of meditation. It’s a beautiful, beautiful thing, and you can thank me by sending me a craft beer from your hometown.

Beginner’s Guide to Getting Things Done (GTD)

 I get a lot of questions about GTD – what are the basic principles, how should one start. Well, the obvious answer is to start by getting the book:  Getting Things Done: The Art of Stress-Free Productivity.  But I started without it, about a year ago, and I was able to get off the ground just with information on the web.

Well, I’m not going to explain the whole system in this post. Instead, I’ll provide some links to help you get started, if you’re a beginner GTD disciple.

Top Links for Starting GTD

• 43 Folders: Getting Started with GTD


• Black Belt Productivity: A GTD Primer


• What’s the Next Action: 21 links to start with GTD


• Wired: A guide to GTD


• Davidco’s Lisa Peak: 10 beginner behaviors


• Steve Lawson: GTD overview


• Mine Zone: Getting Things Done


• Davidco: Advanced GTD Workflow Diagram (pdf)


• GTD Software directoryFind out all about GTD Software here.


• Lifehack: Ask the Readers: Getting Started with GTD

Purpose Your Day: Most Important Task (MIT)

 I’ve mentioned this briefly in my morning routine, but I thought I’d explain a little bit more about MITs – Most Important Tasks. It’s not an original concept, but one that I use on a daily basis and that has helped me out tremendously.

It’s very simple: your MIT is the task you most want or need to get done today. In my case, I’ve tweaked it a bit so that I have three MITs — the three things I must accomplish today. Do I get a lot more done than three things? Of course. But the idea is that no matter what else I do today, these are the things I want to be sure of doing. So, the MIT is the first thing I do each day, right after I have a glass of water to wake me up.

And here’s the key to the MITs for me: at least one of the MITs should be related to one of my goals. While the other two can be work stuff (and usually are), one must be a goal next-action. This ensures that I am doing something to move my goals forward that day.

And that makes all the difference in the world. Each day, I’ve done something to make my dreams come true. It’s built into my morning routine: set a next-action to accomplish for one of my goals. And so it happens each day, automatically.

Another key: do your MITs first thing in the morning, either at home or when you first get to work. If you put them off to later, you will get busy and run out of time to do them. Get them out of the way, and the rest of the day is gravy!

It’s such a small thing to implement, and yet I’m raving about it like it’s a huge revelation. But it is. Sometimes small things can make big differences. I highly recommend you give it a go.

My Morning Routine

 Today I start a new habit: my morning routine (to be honest, I started a couple days ago). All this month I will focus on making my morning routine a daily habit.

I’ve actually tried different versions of a morning routine in the past year, and have enjoyed them immensely. I just haven’t stuck with one for a whole month or more, and that is the goal this month.

The reason I like having a morning routine is that not only does it instill a sense of purpose, peace and ritual to my day, but it ensures that I’m getting certain things done every morning … namely, my goals. I’m setting aside morning time as a time of peace and quiet, and time to take small steps each day towards my goals.

Here’s my morning routine, at the moment (subject to tweaking later):

Morning Routine

1. Wake at 4:30 a.m.


2. Drink water.


3. Set 3 Most Important Things (MITs) for today.


4. Fix lunches for kids and myself.


5. Eat breakfast, read.


6. Exercise (run, bike, swim, strength, or yardwork) or meditate.


7. Shower.


8. Wake wife & kids at 6:30 a.m.

A couple of explanations: The MITs that I set for the day concern at least one item towards one of my goals, and probably the 1-2 things I MUST complete at work. There will be more that I do during the day, but my focus will be to finish at least these three MITs.

As for the exercise and meditate item, I have a schedule where I do one exercise each morning (with the exception of Fridays, where I plan to meditate for at least 10-15 minutes). Actually, I also often exercise in the evenings too, so on some days I’ll have two workouts – maybe a bike in the morning and swim in the evening, for example. My body is still getting used to this, so we’ll see how it works out.

As for waking up at 4:30 a.m., I only started doing that within the last few months — before that it was 5:00 or 5:30, and before last year I woke at 6:30, so I’ve really become an early riser just in the last year.

How I Became An Early Riser

 I’ve found that waking early has been one of the best things I’ve done as I’ve changed my life recently, and I thought I’d share my tips. I just posted about my morning routine, and thought you might like to know how I get up at 4:30 a.m.

For many years, I was a late riser. I loved to sleep in. Then things changed, because I had to wake up between 6-6:30 a.m. to fix my kids’ lunches and get them ready for school. But last year, when I decided to train for my first marathon, I decided that I needed to start running in the mornings if I was to have any time left for my family.

So, I set out to make waking up early a habit. I started by getting up at 5:30 a.m., then at 5 a.m. When that became a habit, and I had to wake up at 4 a.m. or 3:30 a.m. for an early long run, it wasn’t a problem. And last November, when I decided to participate in NaNoWriMo, I decided to get up at 4 a.m. to write for at least an hour a day. Now that I completed that novel-writing goal, I don’t need to wake that early anymore, but have settled on a happy compromise of waking at 4:30 a.m. Some days, when I’m really tired (if I go to sleep late), I’ll wake at 5:00 or 5:30, but that’s still earlier than I used to wake up.

Here are my tips for becoming an early riser:

• Don’t make drastic changes. Start slowly, by waking just 15-30 minutes earlier than usual. Get used to this for a few days. Then cut back another 15 minutes. Do this gradually until you get to your goal time.


• Allow yourself to sleep earlier. You might be used to staying up late, perhaps watching TV or surfing the Internet. But if you continue this habit, while trying to get up earlier, sooner or later one is going to give. And if it is the early rising that gives, then you will crash and sleep late and have to start over. I suggest going to bed earlier, even if you don’t think you’ll sleep, and read while in bed. If you’re really tired, you just might fall asleep much sooner than you think.


• Put your alarm clock far from you bed. If it’s right next to your bed, you’ll shut it off or hit snooze. Never hit snooze. If it’s far from your bed, you have to get up out of bed to shut it off. By then, you’re up. Now you just have to stay up.


• Go out of the bedroom as soon as you shut off the alarm. Don’t allow yourself to rationalize going back to bed. Just force yourself to go out of the room. My habit is to stumble into the bathroom and go pee. By the time I’ve done that, and flushed the toilet and washed my hands and looked at my ugly mug in the mirror, I’m awake enough to face the day.


• Do not rationalize. If you allow your brain to talk you out of getting up early, you’ll never do it. Don’t make getting back in bed an option.


• Allow yourself to sleep in once in awhile. Despite what I just said in the previous point, once in awhile it’s nice to sleep in. As long as it’s not a regular thing. I do it maybe once a week or so.


• Make waking up early a reward. Yes, it might seem at first that you’re forcing yourself to do something hard, but if you make it pleasurable, soon you will look forward to waking up early. My reward used to be to make a hot cup of coffee and read a book. I’ve recently cut out coffee, but I still enjoy reading my book. Other rewards might be a tasty treat for breakfast (smoothies! yum!) or watching the sunrise, or meditating. Find something that’s pleasurable for you, and allow yourself to do it as part of your morning routine.


• Take advantage of all that extra time. Don’t wake up an hour or two early just to read your blogs, unless that’s a major goal of yours. Don’t wake up early and waste that extra time. Get a jump start on your day! I like to use that time to get a head start on preparing my kids’ lunches, on planning for the rest of the day (when I set my MITs), on exercising or meditating, and on reading. By the time 6:30 rolls around, I’ve done more than many people do the entire day.


• Enjoy the break of dawn! As much as you can, look outside (or better yet, get outside!) and watch the sky turn light. It’s beautiful. And it’s quiet and peaceful. It’s now my favorite time of day. Getting up early is a reward in itself for me.

10 Habits To Develop Financial Stability And Success

 Just like any goal, getting your finances stable and becoming financially successful requires the development of good financial habits. I’ve been researching this topic extensively in the last few years in my quest to eliminate debt, increase my savings and increase financial security for my family. I’ll talk more about these habits individually, but wanted to list them in a summary (I know, but I’m a compulsive list-maker).

Here they are, in no particular order:

1. Make savings automatic. This should be your top priority, especially if you don’t have a solid emergency fund yet. Make it the first bill you pay each payday, by having a set amount automatically transferred from your checking account to your savings (try an online savings account). Don’t even think about this transaction — just make sure it happens, each and every payday.


2. Control your impulse spending. The biggest problem for many of us. Impulse spending, on eating out and shopping and online purchases, is a big drain on our finances, the biggest budget breaker for many, and a sure way to be in dire financial straits. See Monitor Your Impulse Spending for more tips.


3. Evaluate your expenses, and live frugally. If you’ve never tracked your expenses, try tracking every purchase for one month.  Then evaluate how you’re spending your money, and see what you can cut out or reduce. Decide if each expense is absolutely necessary, then eliminate the unnecessary. See How To Save Money for more.


4. Invest in your future. If you’re young, you probably don’t think about retirement much. But it’s important. Even if you think you can always plan for retirement later, do it now. The growth of your investments over time will be amazing if you start in your 20s. Start by increasing your 401(k) to the maximum of your company’s match, if that’s available to you. After that, the best bet is probably a Roth IRA. Do a little research, but whatever you do, start now!


5. Keep your family secure. The first step is to save for an emergency fund, so that if anything happens, you’ve got the money. If you have a spouse and/or dependents, you should definitely get life insurance and make a will — as soon as possible! Also research other insurance, such as homeowner’s or renter’s insurance.


6. Eliminate and avoid debt. If you’ve got credit cards, personal loans, or other such debt, you need to start a debt elimination plan. List out your debts and arrange them in order from smallest balance at the top to largest at the bottom. Then focus on the debt at the top, putting as much as you can into it, even if it’s just $40-50 extra (more would be better). When that amount is paid off, celebrate! Then take the total amount you were paying (say $70 minimum payment plus the $50 extra for a total of $120) and add that to the minimum payment of the next largest debt. Continue this process, with your extra amount snowballing as you go along, until you pay off all your debts. This could take several years, but it’s a very rewarding process, and very necessary.


7. Use the envelope system. This is a simple system to keep track of how much money you have for spending. Let’s say you set aside three amounts in your budget each payday — one for gas, one for groceries, one for eating out. Withdraw those amounts on payday, and put them in three separate envelopes. That way, you can easily track how much you have left for each of these expenses, and when you run out of money, you know it immediately. You don’t overspend in these categories. If you regularly run out too fast, you may need to rethink your budget.


8. Pay bills immediately, or automatically. One good habit is to pay bills as soon as they come in. Also, as much as possible, try to get your bills to be paid through automatic deduction. For those that can’t, use your bank’s online check system to make regular automatic payments. This way, all of your regular expenses in your budget are taken care of.


9. Read about personal finances. The more you educate yourself, the better your finances will be.


10. Look to grow your net worth. Do whatever you can to improve your net worth, either by reducing your debt, increasing your savings, or increasing your income, or all of the above. Look for new ways to make money, or to get paid more for what you do. Over the course of months, if you calculate your net worth each month, you’ll see it grow. And that feels great.

A Guide To Living Frugal

 An ongoing quest for me, and one that I am renewing this year, is to eliminate all that is unnecessary from my life. Now, you might read this and think that I am cutting everything fun from my life, but that’s not true. Let me explain.

The first question in this quest, of course, is what does “necessary” mean? We must first examine what things are necessary … and the first question in this examination is … necessary for what? What is the true aim? My answer, which will be different than others, is “necessary for a happy life.”

This definition, then, would include many things besides the basics of clothing, shelter and food. I might not need a good relationship with my wife in order to survive, but it is necessary for me to be happy in life (I’ve found). Same thing with my kids. To be happy, I must develop a good relationship with them, make them happy, and spend time with them.

But that doesn’t mean that anything I do with them counts as necessary. I can be happy with my children just by going to a free park — I don’t need to buy them things all the time, or go costly entertainment (like movies, the mall, or waterparks).

Similarly, we need to eat, but we don’t need to eat junk food. True, you might say that sweets, or french fries, make you happy. Well, that’s the key to this whole exercise: do you really need something to be happy? And even more, do you need it on a daily basis, or can it be an occasional treat?

Coffee and chocolate are two recent examples for me. I love both. A lot. But I am addicted to them (because of the caffeine), and that makes me want them more than I really need them to be happy. So I am trying to cut them out, at least for now. I think later, after I kick the habit, I can indulge in those things as a treat, once in awhile, without lapsing into addiction.

Other things I can cut out (except as treats):

• Going to movies (I rarely do this anymore)


• Sweets, like pastries or baked goods or candies (rarer now, but still a MAJOR temptation)


• toys (gizmos and gadgets that are a lot of fun, but not necessary – like an mp3 player)


• new books (I try to buy used now, or trade em)


• eating out (have been trying to cut back, but still lapse more than I should)

And some things that I need to think hard about:

• cable internet (I have this at work — it’s nice at home, but I’m not sure if it’s necessary)


• cell phone (I don’t NEED it too much — it’s convenient, but it’s rare that I really need it)

On the whole, I’ve cut out a lot already, and I’m very happy with the simplicity I’ve created so far. I have a lot more to do, but it’s the process that I enjoy, not the end product.

Monitor Your Impulse Spending

 Do you have a problem with impulse spending? If so, the first step to controlling it is monitoring your urges. Make it a goal to monitor and track your spending urges over the next week or two.

Keep a small notebook handy, and every time you get an urge to buy something, practical or not, put a little tally in the notebook. Tally every urge, whether it is to buy something online, or at a store, looking at a catalog, thinking about that new iPod while at your desk, or even if it’s multiple urges to buy the same item.

Whether you buy the item or not, just keep track of the urges. Many times the urges are subconscious. You won’t be able to control your spending if you’re not aware of it.

Some other tips, beyond this first step, for controlling impulse spending:

• Avoid the mall or Walmart other shopping areas. Just going there practically guarantees you’ll buy something on impulse. Do something outdoors or at home instead.


• If you have to go shopping, go with a list. And stick to the list. Tell yourself that anything not on the list is strictly verboten.


• Keep a 30-day list. If you have an urge to buy something, make it a rule that you have to first write it on your 30-day list. If, at the end of those 30 days, you still want it, then you can buy it (if you have the money). Just the act of putting it on the list (awareness) and forcing yourself to wait (delay) can make a big difference.


• Breathe. And drink water. This delay can help you get past your urge.


• Find other things to do with your friends or family. Do you hang out with people who love to shop as a pastime? Encourage them to do something else. Go outside, to a park, to the beach. Have a potluck dinner at home. If your friends refuse to change, you may want to give some thought to who you hang out with, if you have different values.

Gmail Zen: Clean Out Your Inbox

 I use Gmail exclusively for email, and it constitutes a major part of my two day jobs. I get a fair amount of email each hour, and I am pretty quick at responding.

However, one thing you’ll notice about my Gmail inbox is that it is just about always empty.

It gives me a Zen feeling to have a clean inbox, a feeling of peace and calm and satisfaction. I highly recommend it to everyone. I wasn’t always like this — I had many emails in my inbox in the past. They would sit in there, sometimes unread, sometimes just waiting on an action, sometimes waiting to be filed, and others just waiting because I was procrastinating. I also had many folders for filing my email, so I could find them when I needed them. It would take me awhile to file sometimes, so I would put it off. Many people I know are the same way.

Here are my simple steps to achieving Email Zen:

1) Don’t check email first thing in the morning, or have it constantly on. This is a tip offered by many blogs, so nothing new here. Checking email first thing will get you stuck in email for awhile. Instead, do your most important thing for the day, or the thing you’ve been procrastinating on the most. Then check email. Better yet, do 2 or 3 things first. Also, if you are constantly checking email throughout the day, or it notifies you as soon as an email comes in, you will be constantly distracted and not able to focus on the task before you. I check once an hour, but you might have different needs.

2) When you check your email, dispose of each one, one at a time, right away. Make a decision on what needs to be done on each email.

2a) Is it junk or some forwarded email? Trash it immediately.

2b) Is it a long email that you just need to read for information? File it in a Read folder (or tag it Read and archive) or print it to read on the road (while waiting in line, for example).

2c) If the email requires action, make a note of the action on your to-do or GTD lists to do later. Also note to check the email for info if necessary. Then archive the email. You can easily find it later when you need to do that task.

2d) If you can respond to it in a minute or two, do so immediately. Don’t put it off. If you wait, you’ll end up with a backlog of emails to respond to, and you may never get around to it. I respond quickly, with a short note, and send it right away. That way I’m viewed as responsive and on top of things.

2e) If you need to follow up on the email later, or are waiting for a response, note it on a Waiting For list. Don’t just leave it in your inbox as a reminder.

3) I have only one folder: Archive. When I respond to an email, or finish reading it if it doesn’t need response, or note it on my to-do list, I archive it. Simple as that. You could add a Read folder if you want. I usually print longer ones to read later, like during lunch or while waiting for something. Other people have an Action folder or a Waiting For folder, but I find that that’s just an additional inbox that you have to constantly check. I don’t like to check extra folders. I have my to-do lists and my Waiting For list, and that’s good enough. So it’s as simple as pressing “Archive” on an email, and if I need to find it later, Gmail’s search is so good that it’s easy to find. I’ve never had any problems with this system.

Email Zen is that easy: check email at regular periods, take action on each email right away (or note it on a list to do later) and archive.

Ahhh. Empty inbox!

3 Easy Steps to a Permanently Clear Desk

 Once upon a time, my desk was cluttered with all the things I was currently working on — not to mention dozens of things I wasn’t working on: notes, post-its, phone numbers, papers to be filed, stacks of stuff to work on later. I was too busy to organize it, and if I ever did get it cleared, it would pile up soon after.

It’s a different story today. These days, my desk is always clear, except for the one thing I’m working on, and perhaps a notebook and pen for jotting down notes, ideas or to-dos as they come up. It’s a liberating feeling … it calms me … it reduces stress and chaos … it definitely makes things easier to find … and it makes me more efficient and productive.

How did I make the transformation? Well, it wasn’t an easy journey, and I’ve improved over the years, but the basic steps are outlined below. The important thing to remember is that you must have a system in place, and you must teach yourself to follow the system. Otherwise, you just clean your desk, and it gets messy again.

Here’s the system:

1. First, take everything on your desk and in your drawers, and put them in one big pile. Put it in your “in basket” (if it doesn’t fit, pile it next to your desk or something). From now on, everything that comes in must go in your in basket, and you process everything as below.

2. Process this pile from the top down. Never re-sort, never skip a single piece of paper, never put a piece of paper back on the pile. Do what needs to be done with that paper, and then move on to the next in the pile. The options: trash it, delegate it, file it, do it, or put it on a list to do later. In that order of preference. Do it if it takes 2 minutes or less to complete. If it takes more, and you can’t trash, delegate or file it, then put it on a list of to-dos (more on your to-do list in another post).

3. Repeat at least once daily to keep desk clear. The end of the day is best, but I tend to process and tidy up as I go through the day. Once you’ve processed your pile, your desk is clear. You’ve trashed or filed or somehow put everything where it belongs (not on top of your desk or stashed in a drawer). Keep it that way. You must follow the system above: put everything in your inbox, then take action on each piece of paper in the inbox with one of the steps listed. If an item is on your to-do list, you can keep the paper associated with it in an “Action” folder. But you must regularly (daily or weekly) go through this folder to ensure that everything is purged.

It’s that simple. Have a phone number on a post-it? Don’t leave it on top of your desk. File it in your rolodex or contacts program. Have something you need to work on later? Don’t keep the papers on top of your desk. Put it on your to-do list, and file the papers in your Action folder. File or trash or delegate everything else.

Leaving stuff on top of your desk is procrastination (and as a procrastinator, I should know). If you put it off until later, things will be sure to pile up on your desk. Deal with them immediately, make a decision, take action.

What I’ve described is a good habit to learn, but it takes time to learn it. You’ll slip. Just remind yourself, and then do it. Soon it’ll be a habit you have a hard time breaking. And trust me, once you’re used to your desk being clear, you won’t want to break this habit.

The Speculative World Building Template

1. The Physical Foundation (The "Where")

Before you populate the world, you need to understand the constraints of the terrain.

• Geography & Climate: Is it a single-biome world (like an ice planet) or diverse? How do mountains, oceans, or toxic wastes dictate where people live?

• Celestial Context: How many suns or moons are there? How does the day/night cycle or seasonal shift affect biology?

• The "Weird" Factor: What is the one physical law that differs from our world? (e.g., floating continents, a world where it never stops raining, or a planet with a vertical "up-down" gravity shift).

2. The Power Structure (The "Who")

Setting is defined by who holds the keys to the kingdom.

• Governance: Is it a crumbling empire, a corporate technocracy, or a loose collection of magic-wielding tribes?

• The Economy: What is the most valuable resource? Is it "Spice," mana, fresh water, or data? Whoever controls this resource controls the setting.

• Social Hierarchy: Who is at the top, and who is at the bottom? How does a person move between these layers (if they can at all)?

3. The Rules of Reality (The "How")

Whether it’s Magic or Tech, the "system" must be consistent.

• The Magic/Tech System: What are the costs? (e.g., using magic drains physical stamina, or FTL travel causes premature aging).

• Infrastructure: How do people get around? Think about the difference between a world connected by ancient "stargates" versus one reliant on horse-drawn wagons.

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4. The Daily Grind (The "Vibe")

This is where you find the sensory details that create immersion.

• Architecture & Aesthetics: Do people live in brutalist concrete bunkers or organic tree-cities? What do the textures feel like?

• Taboos & Traditions: What is considered a grave insult? What does this society celebrate, and what do they fear?

• The "Old World": What lies beneath the surface? Every great setting has "ruins"—the remnants of those who came before.

5. The Environmental Conflict (The "Why")

Finally, connect the setting back to your plot.

• Current Instability: Is the world dying, expanding, or undergoing a revolution?

• The Pressure Point: What part of the environment is currently making life difficult for your protagonist? (e.g., a looming "Long Winter" or a solar flare threatening the power grid).

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How to use this: Try to answer just three of these points in detail today. Once you have those, the rest of the world often begins to reveal itself through logical necessity.

Ideas to Save Money

 So you want to try the frugal lifestyle.  It will take simplifying your life and cutting back on little things, one at a time. And while there are definitely many more things you can scrimp and save on, these are some quick ideas.  Here’s how to save money:

1) Cut your own hair. I bought a $20 buzzer, and it lasts about a year. I used to get a haircut every month, at a cost of $20 (including tip, not including gas money to get there and valuable time spent there). So I save the cost of about 11 haircuts a year. I do the same for my three sons, saving another 36 haircuts (at $10 each). Annual savings: $580.

2) No Cable TV. You can watch almost every TV show you like on the internet now.  Also try watching DVDs or reading. DVD's are inexpensive now (especially if you rent or borrow them). Cable costs about $65/month. Annual savings: $780.

3) Became vegan. Eat fresh fruits and veggies, which are expensive, sure, but you are supposed to eat those whether you’re vegan, vegetarian or a carnivore, so I don’t count those as extra expenses. The real comparison is between meat, and the protein substitutes you use. Most of your protein will come from tofu, although you can eat beans and soy protein such as fake ground beef or soy burgers. Overall I believe you will save about $2-3 per day not eating meat. Annual savings: $900.

4) Don’t use the gym. I used to be a member of a gym. Didn’t use it much, and still got charged for a full year. Now I get a lot of exercise, but I do it at home and on the road. I do strength exercises in my living room and jog (and will soon start cycling and swimming). Annual savings: $420.

5) Rarely go to the movies. I used to go out to the movies at least once a week, and sometimes more. I slowly made it every other week, and now I don’t even go once a month. Now we take the kids to the park or out to do something more fun and creative. I figure this saves us at least $15 per week, although it’s probably more when you factor in the cost of my kids’ tickets, and concessions.Annual savings: $780.

6) Quit smoking. I quit about 20 years ago, but if you haven't this can be a huge savings. If you smoked a pack a day, plus a soda or tea or coffee to go with the cigarettes, at a cost of about $9 per day. Annual savings: $3,200.

7) Don’t drink much. I never did, still don't. But for some people, drinking is a major expense. A beer or two a day can add up, and for the sake of these calculations, I’ll count it. Annual savings: $800.

8) Never go out. Don’t go to clubs, or the theater, or ballet, or opera. This is an extreme and won't work for some people.  At least consider cutting back.  Annual savings: maybe $500.

9) Stay healthy. If you are a vegan, a runner, and don’t drink or smoke anymore, you may never have to go to the doctor.  If you keep up this lifestyle, your likelihood of getting the most common diseases are greatly lowered. Annual savings: probably $1,200.

10) Don’t go shopping. We used to hang out at the mall a lot. It was convenient, and had a lot of great stuff to look at, and a food court. The food court alone costs $30 for us, and if we bought stuff that would be another $25-75. Cha-ching. Now I rarely ever, ever, ever go to the mall. I hate it anyway. I only go to the mall or Kmart if I need something, and even then I try my best to avoid it. Annual savings: probably $2,600.

11) Try to be a single car family. Even if you are a married couple with six kids, soccer practice, choir, school functions, many many family gatherings, running events, martial arts, and much more. You can get by on one car. Look to get a used van with better fuel economy, and consider commuting at least a few times a week by bike. Annual savings: unknown, but perhaps $5,000.

12) Bring your own lunch. Your co-workers eat out every day, at a cost of $8-20 per lunch. I bring leftovers or a sandwich and fruits and pretzels and stuff. At a cost of probably less than $5. Annual savings: $1,800.

13) No magazine or newspaper subscriptions. I used to have the paper delivered. Now I read it online or at work. I used to subscribe to 1-2 magazines. Now I read the Internet. Annual savings: $360.

14) Rarely buy new clothes. Buy what you need, not what catches your eye in the store (another reason to stay out of the mall).  Annual savings: maybe $400.

15) Rarely travel. We would all like to travel. When you are out of debt and your savings accounts are nice and healthy, then travel. But for now, skip it. Others take at least a trip per year. Annual savings: $1,500.

16) No more lattes. Many of us get a latte every day. At a cost of about $4 per latte. Sometimes you get two. Make your own coffee. Annual savings: about $1,000.

There are more little ways that you can learn to save, like buying books at a used book store, cooking most of your meals (aside from the above-mentioned lunches), power-saving measures, no long distance calls. There are also ways you can still save, including eating out less (eat out 1-3 times per week, mostly fast food like pizza or Taco Bell or Wendy’s, all of which I can do without).

Estimated total savings: $22,000.

Now, I’m not sure if most people spend the full amounts listed above, or if I ever did. But at some point, I did come close, and I think many people do as well. But however you look at it, there are ways to save money. Does this all go into savings? Of course not. Choose two of the above or ten, either way you will start saving money!

The Importance of Setting

The Art of World Building

In speculative fiction, the setting isn’t just a backdrop; it is a living, breathing character that dictates the logic of the entire story. Whether it’s the sprawling, moss-covered ruins of a forgotten kingdom or the sterile, neon-drenched corridors of a deep-space station, the environment provides the essential "rules of engagement" for the reader. 

The Foundation of Internal Logic 

In realism, writers rely on shared experiences. In Fantasy and Science Fiction (SFF), however, the author must build a world from the ground up. This process, often called worldbuilding, establishes the laws of physics, magic, and society. 

• Fantasy: If a mountain is sentient, it changes how a protagonist plans a journey. 
• Sci-Fi: If a planet has triple the gravity of Earth, it changes how characters move, build, and fight. 

Without a well-defined setting, the stakes feel hollow. If the reader doesn't understand the limitations of the world, they won't understand the magnitude of the hero’s triumph. 

Setting as Conflict 

In SFF, the environment is frequently the primary antagonist. In Frank Herbert’s Dune, the desert isn't just where the story happens; it is the source of the conflict, the religion, and the economy. The scarcity of water drives every character's motivation. When the setting is integrated into the plot, it forces characters to make difficult choices. A ship’s failing life-support system in a hard sci-fi novel creates a unique kind of tension that a simple "ticking clock" in a contemporary thriller cannot replicate.

Reflecting Themes and Emotion 

Setting also serves as a visual metaphor for the story's themes. A crumbling, gothic castle in a dark fantasy might represent the decay of an old empire. Conversely, a utopian "solarpunk" city might represent hope and human ingenuity. By carefully crafting the atmosphere—the smells of a Martian market or the bioluminescent glow of an alien forest—writers ground the "impossible" in sensory detail, making the fantastic feel visceral and real. 

The Cultural and Sociopolitical Blueprint 

Beyond the physical landscape, setting in SFF encompasses the invisible architecture of culture, religion, and politics. In a secondary world, the environment dictates how a society evolves. A civilization living in a subterranean cave system will have a vastly different vocabulary, mythology, and social hierarchy than one living on floating islands. When a writer invests in the "macro" setting—the history of a fallen empire or the trade laws of a galactic federation—they provide a sense of verisimilitude. This depth prevents the world from feeling like it was created five minutes before the protagonist walked into the room. It suggests a "lived-in" quality where characters are products of their environment, carrying the biases, traditions, and traumas of their specific geography. 

The "Sense of Wonder" and Aesthetic 

Identity In science fiction and fantasy, the setting often provides the "Sense of Wonder" that defines the genre. This is the "Big Idea" translated into a visual or sensory experience. 

• The Sublime: Seeing a ringed planet fill the sky or witnessing a city built on the back of a giant wandering beast. 
• The Juxtaposition: High-tech cybernetics in a low-life slum (Cyberpunk) or steam-powered airships in a Victorian landscape (Steampunk).

These aesthetic choices aren't just for "cool factor." They establish the tonal contract with the reader. A setting filled with bright, gleaming spires suggests an optimistic "Golden Age" sci-fi tone, whereas a world of endless rain and smog prepares the reader for a noir-inspired deconstruction of corporate greed. 

Ecology as a Narrative Engine 

Modern SFF increasingly uses ecology as a central pillar of setting. No longer is the forest just "the woods"; it is a complex ecosystem with its own predatory cycles and symbiotic relationships. In "Hard" Science Fiction, this might involve calculating orbital mechanics or the chemical composition of an atmosphere to see if a human could actually survive. In Fantasy, this might mean designing a magic system that functions like a natural resource—one that can be depleted, polluted, or fought over. When the setting has its own biological or magical metabolism, it creates organic plot points. The characters don't just move through the world; they are part of its food chain or its energy cycle. 

Why It Matters 

Ultimately, a strong setting facilitates immersion. It allows the reader to step out of their own reality and into a space where the impossible is probable. When the setting is neglected, the story feels like a stage play with cardboard cutouts; when it is prioritized, the world remains in the reader's mind long after the final page is turned. Setting is the anchor that keeps the "balloon" of high-concept ideas from drifting into incoherence. By grounding a story in a specific, tangible place, the author earns the reader's trust. If the reader can smell the ozone of a malfunctioning warp drive or feel the chill of a cursed mountain pass, they will believe in the dragons and the starships.

Flaws - We All Have Them

Character flaws that enhance relatability often mirror real-world human vulnerabilities, making a character feel accessible and "real" to readers. These flaws are typically categorized into minor quirks, major personality obstacles, or tragic "fatal" flaws that drive the plot. 

Common Internal & Emotional Flaws

These are some of the most effective for building reader empathy as they highlight universal internal struggles:

• Insecurity and Self-Doubt: A character who second-guesses their abilities or constantly compares themselves to others.
• Anxiety: Excessive worry or being "paralyzed" by a fear of the unknown.
• Impulsiveness: Acting without considering consequences, which often leads to believable mistakes.
• Perfectionism: An obsessive need for everything to be perfect, which often stems from a fear of failure or judgment.
• Stubbornness: A refusal to change or admit when they are wrong, creating natural friction in relationships. 

Minor Quirks and Behavioral Flaws

Small, everyday imperfections help "ground" a character in reality:

• Clumsiness: Being uncoordinated or accident-prone.
• Absentmindedness: Forgetting small details, misplacing keys, or being frequently late.
• Messiness: A lack of organization in their personal or professional life.
• Poor Social Skills: Being awkward, shy, or struggling to communicate effectively with others. 

Major Narrative Flaws

These traits often serve as the primary internal obstacles the character must overcome for growth:

• Arrogance or Hubris: Overestimating one's own importance or abilities, leading to a "fall".
• Jealousy: A deep-seated fear of losing something or someone, often rooted in past trauma.
• Selfishness: Prioritizing personal desires over the needs of others, which can be redeemed through a character arc.
• Over-independence: Believing they must do everything themselves, which leads to isolation and burnout.

Why Flaws Create Relatability

• Humanity: Perfect characters are often perceived as boring or unrealistic; flaws prove a character is "human".
• Backstory Connection: Flaws are often evidence of past struggles or trauma, providing a reason for the character's behavior.
• Growth Potential: Weaknesses create a "growth arc," allowing readers to root for the character as they attempt to improve.

The Lazy Manifesto: Do Less. Then, Do Even Less.

 “Practice not-doing and everything will fall into place.” - Lao Tzu

How many of us don’t get lazy every now and then? Of course, some of us get lazy more than others — my mom (always a hard worker) once told me she gets lazy, but then she just does the work anyway. I replied, “Mom, that’s not lazy! That’s the opposite of lazy!”

Lazy is often seen as a bad thing, but I disagree. Lazy is an amazing thing.

Here’s just a few reasons why:

1. Lazy means that your body and mind are tired and want to rest. That’s a sign that you should actually rest. When you ignore these signs, that leads to burnout. So rest, and feel good about it!


2. Lazy means you don’t want to work too hard, which often leads to figuring out how to do less work. Just about all of the advances in technology come from laziness: we drive cars instead of walking because we’re too lazy to walk, we use washing machines because we’re too lazy to do it by hand, we use computers because writing things out by hand is hard. Of course, reliance on machines isn’t a good thing, but using laziness to figure out better ways to do things is a good thing.


3. Lazy people don’t start wars. Who wants to go through all the trouble to fight a war? Peace and friendliness is much easier.

“Simple Productivity” has been the motto of Zen Habits from its early days (even though I talk about a lot of other things as well) … and today I’d like to set out the reasons “Do Less” is one of my Four Commandments, and why it’s the ultimate extension of Simple Productivity.

Do Less: The Ultimate Simple Productivity

It may seem paradoxical that Do Less can mean you’re more productive — and if you define “productive” as meaning “get more done” or “do more”, then no, Do Less won’t lead to that kind of productivity.

But if instead you define “productivity” as a means of making the most of your actions, of the time you spend working (or doing anything), of being as effective as possible, then Do Less is the best way to be productive.

Consider: I can work all day in a flurry of frenetic activity, only to get a little done, especially when it comes to lasting achievement. Or I can do just a couple things that take an hour, but those are key actions that will lead to real achievement. In the second example, you did less, but the time you spent counted for more.

Let’s take the example of a blogger: I can write a dozen posts that really say nothing, mean nothing, but take up my entire day … or I can write one post that affects thousands of people, that really reaches to the heart of my readers’ lives, and takes me 1.5 hours to write. I did less, but made my words and time count for more.

If you’re lazy, as I often am, then the choice is simple. Do Less.

But do it smartly: Do Less, but make every action count. Send fewer emails, but make them important. Write fewer words, but make each word essential. Really consider the impact of every action you take, and see if you can eliminate some actions. See if you can achieve a great impact doing less.

This doesn’t mean “less is more”. It means “less is better”.

Do Less: Of Everything

But Do Less means much more than being productive. It goes to the heart of everything we do, of our society. Do Less is nothing less than a two-word manifesto for living.

Here’s how the two-word manifesto of “Do Less” can change everything:

1. Do Less buying. If you spend less, shop less, acquire less, then you will own less, need less, get into less debt, be in better financial shape, have less clutter, and have more time for things that are truly important.

2. Do Less busy-work. Instead of running around doing lots of little things, slow down. Do Less. Live a calmer, more peaceful life. Be content to sit, to do nothing. Relax a little. Smile and be happy.

3. Do Less managing. If you are in a position of authority over others, whether it’s as a manager, executive, or parent … the less you do the better. Many people over-manage, or over-parent. This gives their employees, or children, very little freedom, room for creativity, room to learn on their own, to succeed and fail. The less you do, the more others will figure out how to do things. Do little things to guide and teach, but for the most part, back off and let them be.

4. Do Less communicating. Less talking, less yelling, less arguing, less emails and IM and Twittering, less phone calling. While I think communication is extremely important, and should be one of the keys to any relationship, I also think we do it too much. Especially as most of it becomes nothing but jabbering at each other, with very little actual listening. It is noise. Let silence into your life. Let stillness pervade our minds. When you do communicate, make it count, make it sincere, and more than you talk, listen. Make every email count. Only IM when it’s necessary. Spend less time on the phone and Twitter and Blackberry and iPhone, and more time with humans, more time with yourself, more time in the present.

5. Do Less complaining and criticizing. I won’t rant about how these two things can drag down you and those around you … but instead will say that if you did less of these two things, your life would be better. And we all do them — fess up! I do, and I try to do less of it. Instead, do more kindness, compassion, understanding, accepting, loving.

6. Do Less planning and worrying and future thinking. Spend more time in the moment. We worry too much, and it does us no good. We think about things that haven’t happened, instead of what’s happening now (and yes, I know that’s the name of an old sitcom). And while some planning is necessary, too much of it is a waste of time — there’s no way to predict the future, and trying to control every little thing that’s going to happen is futile. Learn to go with the flow, look for opportunities, find the natural path of things, and do what is needed in the moment. You can’t control outcomes, but if you learn to work more fluidly (instead of rigidly following plans), you can get to outcomes that are good.

7. Do Less judging and expecting. Acceptance is something I’m trying to learn to do more. And that means I need to be less judgmental, and stop having expectations from everything and everybody. If you have no expectations, and don’t judge things, you can accept them. And acceptance leads to peace, leads to happiness. So when you find yourself judging, think “Do Less Judging”. When you find yourself expecting someone to be a certain way, think “Do Less Expectations”. People won’t disappoint you that way, because you’ll learn to accept them as they are, and learn that they are already perfect, as they are.

“Be Content with what you have; rejoice in the way things are. When you realize there is nothing lacking, the whole world belongs to you.” - Lao Tzu

How to Do Less

If you are sold on the two-word manifesto — Do Less — you might be saying to yourself, “Self, that sounds good, but how exactly do I go about doing less?” It’s simple:

1. Do Less. Yes, it really is that simple. Do Less. Take how much you usually do, and Do Less than that. If you’re smart, you’ll naturally choose the more essential things to do, but it’s possible that you won’t, and you’ll just choose whatever is easy or convenient or fun. That’s OK. Go with that. Eventually you’ll probably have to do the important stuff, because it probably has to be done sometime. Or maybe you won’t, and you’ll end up getting nothing done. Then you’ll think to yourself, “Self, there has to be a better way. Either I have to go back to doing more, or I have to choose more wisely in what I do.”

2. Then Do Even Less. If you followed the first step, and you’re now doing less than you were before, congratulate yourself! Pat yourself on the back! Celebrate by going to take a nap. Now, when you’re ready to get started again, try to do even less than you were doing in Step 1 above. Pare some of your actions down. Look for more fat to trim. See if some things really aren’t as necessary as you thought they were. Pass some things on to others, automate other things, delay on still others, and get out of doing still others by calling up someone or emailing them and explaining, “I’m sorry, I just can’t do as much as I originally planned.” Now you’re doing less than before!

Repeat. Keep doing less until you’re doing almost nothing. When you’ve reached that point, congratulations! You’re a master. When you can get by with doing nothing at all, you’ve reached Nirvana and enlightenment and you should really be teaching me instead of the other way around. Feel free to come write a guest post for Zen Habits when you’ve reached this state!

Some other ideas to consider when learning to Do Less:

• Go with the flow. Imagine the effort required to swim upstream compared to moving with the flow of a river. If you go with the flow of things, rather than against them, you will naturally do less, and with less effort.


• Don’t force things. A common mistake — trying to hard, forcing something that doesn’t want to be forced, forcing people to do things they don’t want to do. A lot of effort, action, and time is wasted. Instead, find a smoother way — think of water, which flows around things rather than trying to force its way through them.


• Find the pressure points. In martial arts, instead of using maximum force, you are wise to find the points in the body where less force can be used to greater effect, whether that’s to cause pain or imbalance or some other effect. Well, I don’t advocate finding pain, but the idea of pressure points is a good one: if you can find the little spots where a little action can change everything, can go a long way, you have mastered the Do Less philosophy.


• Let others do. Give others the room and freedom to move, to create, to invent, to learn, to work, to do, on their own. Less time, effort and action spent trying to control others means that you do less, but let others make things happen. It means letting go of control, but that’s a good thing. Other people have creativity, imagination, dedication, good ideas too.


• Let things happen. Often our actions interfere with events that would happen without our actions. In other words, if we took no action, things would happen without us. Sometimes it’s better to let things happen. Step back, don’t act, things will happen without us.

“Doing nothing to disturb the spontaneous flow of things.” – Lao Tzu

Get Less Done: Stop Being Productive and Enjoy Yourself

 There’s too much emphasis these days on productivity, on hyper efficiency, on squeezing the most production out of every last minute.

People have forgotten how to relax. How to be lazy. How to enjoy life.

Try this: read some of the best books, magazines and blogs on productivity, and see how many will tell you how to get the most out of the time you spend waiting, how to maximize your energy, how to make use of your commute time, how to make every meeting more effective, how to get more out of your workday, how to crank out more widgets.

People are working longer hours, constantly checking their inboxes, constantly focused on Getting More Done.

But to what end?

Are we producing more in order to make more money for corporations? Or to make more money for ourselves? Or just to hold on to our jobs — jobs we might not like anyway?

It’s possible we’re trying to get more done because we love doing it — and if that’s the case, that’s wonderful. But even then, working long hours and neglecting the rest of life isn’t always the best idea. Sometimes it’s good to Get Less Done, to relax, to breathe.

Let’s take a brief look at how to do that.

The Beauty of Getting Less Done
While working long hours and cranking out a lot of widgets is one way to go, another is to work on important things, to create amazing things, and then to relax.

I’m not saying you should surf the web all day, or take naps all afternoon … but why not? Why not enjoy a lovely nap? Why not take a long lunch and then a siesta? Why not enjoy a good book?

I get people who ask me all the time, “What should I do on those days when I can’t seem to be productive?”

My answer: “Enjoy it!”

Sure, we need to produce sometimes, especially if we have to pay the bills, but an obsession with productivity is unhealthy. When you can’t get yourself to be productive, relax. Let go of the need to be hyperefficient. Stop feeling guilty about enjoying yourself.

But what if you can’t motivate yourself … ever? Sure, that can be a problem. But if you relax, and enjoy yourself, you’ll be happier. And if you work when you get excited, on things you’re excited about, and create amazing things, that’s motivation. Not forcing yourself to work when you don’t want to, on things you don’t want to work on — motivation is doing things you love, when you get excited.

It’s how I work every day. I work on lots of projects, on things I really care about, with people I enjoy working with. (See my guide to becoming self-employed if you’d like to do the same.)

How to Relax
It’s funny that I’d even need a section on this topic — how to relax. It seems like it should be something we all know how to do. After all, aren’t we constantly searching for ways to be less lazy? And doesn’t it logically follow that we already know how to be lazy?

It’s possible you already have mastered the art of relaxing. And if so, congratulations. You are a Get Less Done master. All you need now, perhaps, is to let go of the guilt you might feel, and enjoy this relaxation.

But for those of you who have forgotten how to relax, you’re going to have a tougher time. Here’s a hint: don’t stress out about it. If you don’t know how to relax, it’s OK. Breathe. Take it slowly. One step at a time.

Some steps:

• Take 5 minutes to go outside for a walk. Breathe the fresh air.


• Give yourself more time to do things. More time means less rush.


• After work, get outside, take in nature, run around if you can.


• Play. Play like a child. Play with a child. Play when you work.


• Give yourself a day off. Sleep. Watch TV. Eat bon bons.


• At work, give yourself an hour off. Don’t try to be productive. Just have fun.


• Work with someone who is exciting. Get excited about a project.


• Take evenings off. Seriously, no working in the evenings.


• Get a massage.


• Breathe.

Step by step, learn to relax. Learn that productivity isn’t everything. Creating is great, but you don’t need to fill every second with work. When you do work, get excited, pour yourself into it, work on important, high-impact tasks … and then relax.

Relatable Characters - The Importance

In the vast landscape of fiction, where plots can range from intergalactic wars to quiet domestic dramas, one element remains the anchor of the reader's experience: the character. While a high-concept premise might grab a reader's attention, it is the presence of relatable characters that sustains their engagement over hundreds of pages. In novel writing, relatability is not about creating a character who is "just like" the reader; rather, it is about crafting a persona whose internal logic, vulnerabilities, and desires resonate with the universal human experience.

Developing relatable characters is essential for creating an immersive emotional journey that resonates with readers long after they finish a novel. As of 2026, writing experts emphasize that relatability stems from internal logic, universal human vulnerabilities, and consistent emotional depth rather than mere "likability". 

Core Strategies for Relatability

Layered Motivations: Give characters "surface wants" (e.g., finding a job) and "deeper needs" (e.g., seeking validation or safety).

The "Wound" and the "Lie": Ground characters in a past trauma (the wound) that leads to a false core belief (the lie), such as "I am unlovable".

The "Save the Cat" Principle: Build instant empathy by showing a character using their skills to help someone—or something—vulnerable early in the story.

Everyday Mundanity: Include ordinary situations, such as fumbling with technology or dealing with family holiday stress, to anchor high-concept plots in recognizable reality.

Internal Conflict: Show the tension between a character's internal thoughts and their external actions, highlighting moral dilemmas where every choice has a cost. 

Practical Exercises to Build 3D Characters

Writers often use specific exercises to "flesh out" their characters before drafting:

The "Hot Seat" Interview: Ask your character a series of deep questions, such as "What do you fear most?" or "How would you treat a waiter?" to reveal their voice and mannerisms.

The "Dinner Date": Write a scene of your character at a restaurant. What do they order? How do they handle an awkward conversation?

Two Truths and a Lie: Determine what facts your character would feel safe sharing versus what they would lie about to control how others perceive them.

Character Mirroring: Use secondary characters to reflect or challenge the protagonist's values, such as a warm, empathetic friend serving as an anchor for an aloof hero.

Physical Details as Characterization: Use small physical traits to reflect internal states, like a character who dresses meticulously because they are deeply insecure or a perfectionist. 

Common Mistakes to Avoid

The "Mary Sue/Gary Stu": Avoid perfect characters who never fail or face consequences; readers connect most with those who make believable mistakes and learn from them.

Passive Protagonists: Ensure characters are proactive, making decisions that significantly drive the plot rather than just reacting to it.

Generic Dialogue: Each character should have a unique voice influenced by their background, education, and current emotional state. 

The Bridge of Empathy

The primary function of a relatable character is to serve as a bridge between the reader’s reality and the author’s imagination. When a reader identifies with a character’s struggle, a psychological phenomenon known as "narrative transport" occurs. The reader ceases to be an outside observer and begins to experience the story from the inside. This empathy is what transforms a passive hobby into an immersive emotional journey. Without relatability, even the most explosive action sequences feel hollow, as there is no emotional stake in whether the protagonist succeeds or fails.

Humanity Through Imperfection

The most common mistake in developing characters is the pursuit of perfection. Paradoxically, the more "perfect" a character is—the more heroic, beautiful, or morally infallible—the less relatable they become. True relatability is rooted in flaw and vulnerability.
Readers do not necessarily want to see themselves mirrored exactly; they want to see their struggles validated. A character who grapples with self-doubt, social anxiety, or a temperamental ego feels real because those are the messy hallmarks of the human condition. When a character makes a mistake, the reader feels a pang of recognition. This "flaw" creates a "growth arc," allowing the reader to root for the character’s self-improvement. It is the friction between who a character is and who they wish to be that generates the most compelling narrative momentum.

Universal Emotions in Specific Contexts

Relatability does not require a shared environment. A reader living in 2026 can deeply relate to a 17th-century pirate or a sentient AI in the distant future, provided their emotional core is recognizable. This is the "Universal in the Specific."
While a reader may never have captained a ship or fought a dragon, they know the weight of responsibility, the sting of betrayal, and the yearning for freedom. By grounding fantastical or historical circumstances in familiar emotions—grief, love, jealousy, or the need for belonging—writers make the extraordinary feel accessible. The context provides the entertainment, but the relatable emotion provides the meaning.

Enhancing Narrative Tension

Beyond emotional connection, relatable characters are essential for narrative tension. If a character is an invincible "Mary Sue" or "Gary Stu," the stakes are non-existent because the outcome is never in doubt. Conversely, when a character is relatable, the reader understands their limitations. We know they are afraid; we know they are tired; we know they are risking something they care about. This understanding creates genuine suspense. We worry for them precisely because we recognize their fragility.

Conclusion: The Lasting Impact

Ultimately, the novels that stay with us long after we close the final chapter are those populated by characters who feel like people we have known. Relatable characters turn a story into a lived experience, fostering a sense of connection in an increasingly digital and fragmented world. By focusing on the internal truths of their characters—their secret fears, their quiet hopes, and their inevitable stumbles—authors create more than just a plot; they create a mirror in which the reader can see, and better understand, themselves.